We've finally made it to the point where I start the rewiring job on the Elco. After gutting the old wiring and pulling the dash frame out in order to rework the HVAC system, I managed to get my aftermarket fuse box and fish out some other components I happened to have in storage so I can get a good start on the project. The first thing was to obviously get the fuse box mounted. This involved cutting a piece of sheet metal and screwing it in place over the opening where the old junction block used to sit. Covering this large opening also provided a good mounting surface for the fuse box.
Unlike the same fuse box that I bought that was put in the Dodge, this one conveniently came with female crimp terminals to mate with the male terminals on the fuse box, along with mounting screws and fuses. Even though the fuse box has ten slots, more than likely I won't use any more than maybe six slots, since there really isn't a lot of stuff to run on this car. The next order of business was to start isolating circuits on the different plugs that would be wired up. The gauge cluster has a multi wire plug for the dash lights, turn signals, idiot lights and fuel gauge. The clock on the gauge cluster has its own plug as well as the plugs for the wiper switch, headlight switch and HVAC blower motor and AC clutch switch. On the steering column there's the ignition switch block which I needed to identify the wires so I can isolate which wires will be the +12v power feed into the switch as well as the output to the fuse box, switched on via the ignition switch/accessory switch. The wire for the starter also needed to be isolated and the wire that stays hot in both accessory and start modes needed identification since the engine needs power all the way across both positions. The wire loom going to the rear of the car for the brake/taillights was already isolated. As for the turn signal lever, that device along with the rest of the top of the steering column is trashed so more than likely I'll just install a SPDT switch like I did with the 69 Mustang to serve as a makeshift turn signal switch. As of right now the ignition switch is only able to be activated with a screwdriver levering against the rod that pulls the switch into the on/start position, since the column and key cylinder are damaged/missing.
Gauge cluster backside showing printed circuit board which aided in tracing the specific circuits for the fuel gauge, dash lights, and turn signals, the only devices that will be getting hooked back up. An aftermarket gauge cluster for battery power, oil pressure and water temperature will be used in place of the idiot lights so there's no need to wire those back up.
Backside of the dash frame showing the switches for the wiper and headlights with the wires isolated for the headlight. Since the parking/taillights/headlights/dash lights will all be wired to come on simultaneously, I only need two wires on the headlight switch, basically using the assembly as a simple on/off switch.
Since all the headlight associated lights are going to be on at the same time I just pulled two wires to wire in so I can use the headlight switch as a regular on/off switch. The floor switch will operate the high/low beams. The plug on the wiper motor is color coded to the same wires on the switch with the exception of a black wire on the switch plug and a yellow on black wire on the wiper motor plug. I'll more than likely put power on the circuit just to test the wiring layout to get the proper placement of wires with the switch plug. The washer motor switch is integrated so that will also be resurrected. The latest thing that I had to do before I really get started on the wiring is reinstalling the dash frame. Since some of the loads' plugs are on the gauge cluster/dash, I need those items in place so I can get a proper measurement of wiring in order to not have excess wire piled up behind the dash, keeping things nice and neat. In the process of installing the dash I put the defroster vent and the chest vent ducts back in place, further completing the HVAC retrofit. We have all the power feed wires isolated and wired up, with a positive battery terminal hooked up, feeding power to the ignition switch for both the accessory line and engine power line. The accessory power feed is routed to the fuse box and hooked up along with the power line for the starter solenoid. All these wires are routed out through the firewall to the engine bay and staged about where they will need to be when the actual loads are installed. I will need to splice in an inline fuse for the engine power circuit but that won't be that big of a deal. In fact I have a little plan to put the inline fuse in the engine bay where as a security measure I can pull the fuse, rendering the car unable to be started. We'll figure it out as we go along. This is up my alley, shooting from the hip. We'll get it done though.
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