As we've made note of in recent posts, an interest has been reignited with the world of air guns. With the repair/restoration of a couple models, as well as some models I've documented in the distant past, our involvement with air guns will pick up immensely in the near future. Part of that will be the acquisition of new factory made air guns, along with some plans to build air guns, including bringing back some old spud gun variants we made a long time ago, with some modifications. One of the factory made models I've just picked up is a Umarex NXG Pump Shot BB gun. This gun is built like a standard pump action shotgun and uses a slide action to work the mechanism. It uses a clip with a rotary magazine that has an internal magnet to hold the BBs in place. Ten shots per cylinder allows for some shooting before reloads. The gun is rated to shoot up to 450 fps and is powered by a single 12g CO2 cartridge that is loaded through the bottom of the pistol grip on the stock. Initial tests shown this gun to be pretty powerful, allowing me to destroy CDs from around 10 yards with decent accuracy. As much as I like this gun, I will probably get some more cylinder holder clips so I can be able to get quicker reloads versus pulling the one clip from the gun and releasing the cylinder to switch out.
After my little bout of fun with the BB gun, I also received at the same time the pair of H4 7" round headlight shells, which will be going into Truckstang. The UPS guy literally dropped them off while I was shooting, so I quickly wrapped up the shooting session in order to install these headlight shells. It didn't take much to do, only having to remove the headlight bucket body panel/molding, or whatever the hell this piece of the front grill body is called. With the skin removed from both headlights, the rings come off with three screws, allowing the rings to be rotated a little bit to remove. The headlights were already disconnected when I was testing the LED bulbs so once the old incandescent bulbs were removed, all I had to do was take the H4 bulb and install the LED bulb then seat the unit in place, replacing the ring. With the ring in, the trim panels went back on, four screws a piece, concluding the whole install. A quick plug up and the LED bulbs were back to being connected. Of course everything else was in order as I had already wired up and tested the circuits front and back, well before I even bought the H4 housings. A quick pull of the switch had the new LED lights on and ready to rock and roll. With that all said and done, that is one more little component of Truckstang that can be checked off the list. With the fuel system pretty much done, save for the idea that I have to clock the sending unit to get it into a position where the lever will actually move in the direction needed to work the fuel gauge. In the current position, the gauge reads full when in the empty position. I'll need to apply gasket maker to the rubber seal as well to make sure everything seals since the bolt pattern won't line up. Even with that, I can technically attempt to start the engine since everything is all set, ignition, fuel system, everything. I just need to put a battery permanently in place and fill the rad with water. I'm also looking at the idea of shortening the driveshaft myself as it doesn't look too hard, there's just a few things that have to be noted for that task to be successful. We'll see.
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