After grabbing the 5spd transmission shifter from the junkyard (and the whole transmission the next day), along with some other parts for the FMT I made an attempt to install these parts on our truck build. As usual, I was met with hurdles. The first hurdle was the idea that the shifter would not fit on the selector tongue in the transmission due to the flat spot on the tongue that helps hold the shifter still being 90 degrees off from what would be needed to have the shifter pointing in the direction it needed to be. Apparently, there's a couple of differences between the 5spd in the FMT and the 5spd we pulled from the junkyard. If I put the shifter on and inserted the retaining stud, the shifter would've been pointing at the driver's side door. To remedy this problem, I took the selector tongue and lined up the shifter with the position it would need to be on the tongue and marked it with a marker. From there I ground the metal away with an angle grinder, creating another flat surface that the retaining stud can rest on so the shifter would sit in the position it needs to be for proper movement through the gears. The next part to be modified is the transmission crossmember. The transmission mount we pulled from the junkyard truck has studs that were spaced a little closer together that it couldn't be used on our truck's crossmember. Conveniently the crossmember has indentations among the already existing slots that look like they were stamped to show where holes would be cut if this crossmember used the other type of transmission mount. With this, I was able to use a plasma cutter to burn out those indentations to create a whole extra set of slots to accommodate the studs of this transmission mount. Now, this may compromise the integrity of the mounting surface by making it easy for the transmission mount to crack the narrow tab of metal between two slots. We'll cross that bridge when we get to it. If need be, I can weld some filler metal in to reinforce the area, otherwise, we'll just roll with it. The last part that I had to modify is the oil pan. Since the engine and the timing cover used on the engine have no provision for a dipstick, I had to find an alternative place for one. That place is the oil pan. I was able to source a replacement dipstick bung used on Powerstroke diesel engines. In order for me to use this on the FMT's oil pan I would have to drill a hole in the side of the pan to secure the piece. I would also have to either find a dipstick and tube that will fit and put the dipstick at the level necessary to ensure a proper measurement of oil levels in the pan. I did fill the pan with 5 qts of water to mark the level in the oil pan so I can put the dipstick bung at a level that will be above the oil level to lessen the likelihood of a rogue leak. Worse case I may have to add something like a piece of rubber hose and extra dipstick tube to lengthen the overall tube to accommodate a dipstick to get it at the level I need it to be. That of course will be at a later date as well. The easiest way to cut this size and type of hole was to use a hole saw. The bit that I had access to was just slightly smaller than the diameter of the threaded bung, so after cutting the hole I had to use a grinding wheel to widen the hole a little more. Once that was done, I was able to put the bung in the hole and secure with the included nut. There's a large O-ring that will help seal the bung but when I permanently seal the piece, I'll use some gasket maker around the hole and the bung. I also have to put the position of the dipstick bung at an angle in order to allow the dipstick to go down to where it will touch the oil while also putting the dipstick in a forward leaning position to aid in better reach for the operator checking the oil. Of course, if I have to use a piece of rubber hose and extra dipstick tube, I can slightly bend the dipstick and secure it however I can to keep things stiff and secured. Now with these parts taken care of, I can start the real work. First, I have to put the shifter in the transmission. Next will be the crossmember and mount for the transmission. Afterward I still have to install the fuel pump and filter in the fuel line close to the fuel tank. From there I can lift the engine and pull the old oil pan off. I need to change the oil pickup around to accommodate the rear sump oil pan, then clean the block of the old gasket, replace with a one-piece gasket then reinstall the new oil pan. I can then install whatever I plan on using for the dipstick. Once all that is done, I can move into the advanced stages of the project, getting closer to starting this truck up.
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