As we continue with the advanced stages of rewiring on the Truckstang, we get to the point where we have to start adding devices that will be used on the car. Since the old HVAC box was trashed, it is one of the devices that will have to be sourced from the aftermarket and adapted to fit under the dash on the car. In the meantime, the wires for the blower are routed over to the area where the HVAC box would end up. The same goes for the electric fuel pump I ended up having to add. Because the fuel pump cam is missing on the timing gear/camshaft, I would have to go with the electric pump until I can manage to pull off the timing cover to replace this vital piece to allow me to install a mechanical fuel pump once again. In the meantime, I would have to get a wire routed over to where I would want the fuel pump to be mounted. Now here is where a little touch of laziness comes in. Because I had already pulled the rear panel and the surrounding trim pieces off several times in the process of routing more and more wires along this route to the trunk area, I chose not to install the fuel pump in the rear right where the fuel tank would be. I can't install it in the front as the pump would strain more to draw fuel along the length of the car in order to pump it up to the carburetor. Only other viable option was to mount the pump on the frame rail about midway to 2/3 the way back. This allowed me to have the fuel pump in a very easily accessible spot for future maintenance, plus it allowed me to route a power wire right from the fuse panel, through the firewall, and down along the frame rail to where the fuel pump is located. With the fuel pump in place I went ahead and took care of the headlight plugs and the wiring for the turn signal lights. I had already routed a 2 conductor cable for the headlights when I was getting other wiring in place, so all I needed to do was just wire the plugs up to the wires. One of the terminals on the socket would be a chassis ground, and the other two lines would go to the two conductors of the cable for the high beam and low beam circuits. The low beam circuit would be routed straight to the output of the headlight switch, supplying 12v to the lights. The other would go to the high beam switch, which itself would be hooked straight to ground, as the high beam switch would be a switched ground with the H4 LED headlight circuit. With that done, I routed another two conductor cable, this time a twisted pair of red and yellow wire, along the same path as the headlight cable. The grounds on both turn signal lights were established and each positive wire was connected to one of the wires on the twisted pair. The twisted pair was routed through the firewall and over to the steering column where it will be connected with the new aftermarket turn signal switch when we do receive that piece. The last thing that I had to establish was a circuit for the radiator fan. I would've used the pump mounted fan that was originally on the engine, but could not because of the positions of the radiator and the engine relative to one another. The engine sits a little higher, causing the fan blades to hit the top radiator hose, which we cannot have. Only option is to install an electric fan. Luckily the aftermarket comes through, supplying a 16" flush mount electric fan that even comes mounted on an aluminum shroud plate that fits over the radiator. While I haven't bought one of these pieces yet, I could at least get the circuitry established. Since a rad fan draws some juice, the only viable option I could do without having to add to the fuse box under the dash was to use an automotive relay. The fuse box would only switch the relay while the relay, being fed directly from the battery, would power the fan. I mounted the relay on the same fender wall as the Duraspark hardware, since I would pick up a switched 12v power source from the source supplying the ignition system. I used a connector on the ballast resistor allowing me to add another female wire terminal to the mix feeding the resistor. The terminal has the switched 12v coming in, along with the line feeds going to the ignition coil and now to the automotive relay. The 12v source from the battery was tapped with an eye terminal and hooked up to the starter solenoid where the battery cable is hooked up to. The wire was then routed along the same path as the turn signal and headlight wires, along the top of the radiator core support and over to where the automotive relay is located. After zip tying everything together, I used a short piece of wire to connect the ground side of the automotive relay to the screw that is used to hold the relay to the fender wall. A short piece of wire was then zip tied in place with the wires going over the core support, then routed down to the side of the radiator with enough free wire to reach the fan when we do install it. At this point I'm now at the crossroads where I'm waiting for resupply. Between the turn signal switch, the rad fan, the fuel tank with the sending unit, and fuel hoses, and the H4 LED headlights/sockets, I really can't do much else on the rewiring. I do have to make a battery tray so I can get a battery mounted and ultimately start testing the circuits to make sure that everything that is in place works, and that I'm getting power at the free lines that are routed over to the loads that have not yet been installed. As these items come in, I can finish up the rewiring and by extension, fitting out of the rest of the components on the car, coming that much closer to completion on this project.
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